Red volcanic soils, high altitude and a seemingly magnetic pull for veteran winemakers are making Lake County in northern California one to watch, writes LM Archer.
At the recent SommCon conference in Washington, D.C., a $20 (£14.60) Lake County red blend outshone other premium international labels — a moment that hints at a bigger story.
At the time of writing, 2025 revenues for Brassfield Estate Winery, which produced the show-stopping wine, already surpass total revenues of 2024. “And we have the rest of the year to go,” reports Chris Baker, Brassfield Estate’s president and COO.
As the global wine industry doom-scrolls downward, how does this sleepy wine region north of Napa keep rising?
Location, location, location
Lake County claims its name from a volcanic caldera lake located on Clear Lake Volcanic Field in northern California. The region, spanning approximately 4,047 ha (10,000 acres), contains obsidian-laced volcanic soils, eight appellations, and two towering volcanoes, Mount Cobb and Mount Konocti.
Industry veterans like Andy Beckstoffer of Beckstoffer Vineyards and Clay Shannon of Shannon Family of Wines invested decades ago in Lake County, impressed by its high altitudes, volcanic soils, and ample sunshine.
“I also wanted to be located as close as possible to the edge of development,” says Shannon. “There is not much north of us until you get to Oregon.”
Lake County vineyards slope between 457 m (1,500 ft.) and 914 m (3,000 ft.), basking in about 10% more ultraviolet light than other wine regions at or near sea level. This extra light produces thicker grape skins, and more concentrated phenolics.
“Over time, winemakers and grape buyers across the North Coast recognised the value that Lake County grapes deliver in terms of phenolics, tannin, and structure,” explains Debra Sommerfield, president of Lake County Winegrowers. “Which became sort of a ‘best-kept secret’ among many winemakers.”
Red volcanic soils
Shannon, who farms more than 405 ha throughout Lake County, concurs. “I wanted to grow grapes in red volcanic soils at high elevations in the coastal mountains of California,” he says. “And be able to make high value wine at reasonable prices for the everyday consumer of fine wine.”
More recently, Lake County finds growing favour with younger wine, food and hospitality folks, attracted to its clean air, unassuming lifestyle, and sustainability ethos.
According to Benjamin Neyman, director of production at Shannon Family of Wines, its direct-to-consumer database pegs the average age of local customers at 36 years old.
That said, all ages gather daily at Shannon Mercantile wine bar in Lakeport.
Launched during the pandemic, the tasting room turned social hub anchors a tight community, serving up daily food trucks, weekly live music, merchandise, and a family-friendly atmosphere.
“You know we’re doing something right if our bottling crew comes to hang out after a 12-hour shift,” Neyman notes.
Industry veteran
Entrepreneur Jerry Brassfield sussed out Lake County’s allure in 1973, when he purchased a 2,023 ha former cattle ranch in High Valley AVA. There, he planted 202 ha to vine, intent upon producing high quality, value-driven, estate-grown Cabernet and other varieties.
In late 2023, Brassfield coaxed industry veteran Chris Baker, recently retired from DAOU, to build out Brassfield Estate’s brand nationally, and globally.
Baker’s gobsmacking stats since helming Brassfield Estate include: a 126% increase in shipments, 139% rise in revenue, 75% distribution growth in new markets throughout the US, 49% growth in existing ones, and 6% increase in per-case revenue, compared to the previous year.
Baker credits some of this upsurge to Brassfield’s partnership with distributor Southern Glazer in August 2024, which opened up new markets. He also “fixed the winery from the inside out,” overhauling software, accounting, the sales team, and brand storytelling.
Using what Baker calls “smart work,” his team employs “very specific, measurable, achievable, relevant and time bound objectives,” aiming for a 50/50 split between on-premise and retail, targeting high-profile accounts, and long-term positioning.
Innovation extends beyond sales, too. In April 2025, Brassfield Estate launched a successful, inaugural High Valley Volcano Camp, in partnership with The SOMM Journal. The rigorous, immersive three-day trade event showcased the potential of volcanic High Valley AVA, and Lake County.
Flexibility
In the 1990’s, long-time fruit and nut farmers tapped UC Davis to identify wine grapes favourable to Lake County’s high-elevations, high UV, cold winters, and volcanic soils. Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon topped the list.
